Author: Chandler Gelb

  • Reflection

    There’s an island in Indonesia called Bali. It’s stunning. This is the first time I’ve left Thailand in 6 months and it’s a welcome change of pace. I’m currently writing from a luxurious 3-bed/3-bath villa that is more beautiful than anything I ever thought I’d be able to afford. The L-shaped sofa in the open-air living area overlooks the pool and the textured layers of a vibrant green rice paddy. At night, you can see a sky so dark and clear that I can honestly say I’ve never witnessed stars shine so bright. I couldn’t be happier shacking up in this dream home with two of my best girls. We’re pretty damn lucky, this I know.

    Upon our arrival in Bali, we were informed that March 21st is a very strict Balinese “Day of Silence” called Nyepi. Nypepi signifies the start of the Balinese New Year and the arrival of Spring. On this day of reflection, we are to be confined inside from 6 am til 6 am the following day. We can’t go to the beach. We can’t indulge in entertainment. We can’t have lights on. We can’t do ANYTHING. Even the island’s international airport is closed! It amazes me how we managed to avoid this knowledge pre-arrival, but, we did. This unexpected speed bump could have really sucked, but we’ve essentially been put on house arrest in heaven. Only a few more hours to go…

    Spending this day in forced relaxation mode, I had plenty of time to read, to sunbathe, and to think about the things I’m usually too busy to think about. Amidst feeling really, really grateful- I was happy to realize that I’ve finally found one thing in this world that is irrevocably mine. Traveling. Traveling and every wonderful, scary, challenging, exciting moment spent doing it. Life will inevitably take my money, my possessions, my loved ones, and everything else near and dear to my heart- but these experiences, though fleeting, are all mine. If you’re looking for my unsolicited advice, as well as for something empowering and all your own – please travel. Book a ticket and fly amongst the clouds. Snag that window seat and spend an unusual amount of time marveling at the delicate and wispy mist that can also double as an inpenetrable wall, blocking out a blaring sun. That’s what I did…for at least an hour on my way here. Cross a new city off of that bucket list. When you arrive, be cognizant of every novel smell and feeling, for your new adventure is now tied to them. These impressions on your senses will serve as time travel in the future- any reminder of them will result in a nostalgic return to a specific time and place. I find that music serves as my most reliable time machine, although anyone who’s been to Thailand may argue that smell has its moments of taking precedence. Bali has already laid claim to the smell of incense, which fills the streets here. The vivid color palette is also something I won’t forget- greens and blues and oranges dominate the landscape here. I don’t even need to filter that shit on Instagram….

    Anyways, I want to keep my momentum going. This is why I can’t go home yet. I’m hell-bent on collecting memories and stamps in my passport while I can. I’m addicted to the sensory overload, to novelty, to this entirely foreign lifestyle that I’ve discovered a littttle bit later than I’d ideally have liked. My 28th birthday is about to arrive, bearing lectures in lieu of gifts. It will threaten me with notions of practicality and societal expectations. It’ll remind me that I’m not getting any younger, that my metabolism is certainly not getting any faster (as I pour the remaining crumbs in the Pringles can down my throat). It’ll taunt me with its proximity to the dreaded three-zero. But isn’t that all the more reason to do this now? I’m not done with you, Thailand- 6 months has hardly skimmed the surface. So here’s what’s been going on:

    My semester has come to an end, and with that comes a lot of decision making. I’ve delayed as many goodbyes (to both students and staff) as I can with promises of plans during my time off. We just finished up an overnight western-themed English camp about a week and a half ago, which was comprised entirely of students that I taught this semester. Spending the weekend with them was exhausting but wonderful. Being outside of school, it became very clear to me that I’ve developed some really great relationships with these kids. Being teenagers with relatively good English comprehension, we actually have meaningful conversations. We share common interests, which results in moments such as my student playing Taylor Swift on the guitar while I sing along. And the ones who aren’t quite as advanced- well, we just settle for laughs and funny faces when our eyes meet. Those moments are usually my favorite. I got emotional a few times when my mind wandered to the thought of never seeing them again, but what really pushed me over the edge was the final night of camp during the Talent Show portion. A group of my students got up to perform a song. After they introduced themselves, they announced that they were dedicating the song to Teacher Sara and Teacher Lauren, stating “we will remember you forever”. Welp, I lost it right then and there. When they got off stage I ran up and gave them a big hug, at which point they joined me in the waterworks party. Killin’ me, guys….

    I’m also dealing with the fact that my two very beautiful security blankets are being taken away from me. Hillary and Sara are both leaving in June. I’m beyond grateful for them and our polygamist-like relationship that made the transition to living in Thailand so easy. We’ve been inseparable from Day 1,  and this experience would have been much, much different without them. I do not relish the thought of being here alone, but the cord’s being cut whether I like it or not. I love them to death, but we all agree that in our separation there’s personal growth to be gained (or insanity to be reached, we shall see.)

    “What’s next?” I can’t count how many times I’ve been asked that question, and it’s been really freakin’ hard to answer. I miss my friends and my family, many of whom have expressed that they really want me to come home. This results in a feeling of being torn right down the middle. There’s a choice to be made- stay or go. A person can’t travel the way I want to travel, immerse themselves in other cultures, and have their friends and family, too. It’s just not possible. It’s a sacrifice. Quite honestly, it kills me to know how much I’m missing back home. I have a legitimate fear of returning and having missed so much that there’s an irreparable rift. Everyone’s moving forward in their careers, getting engaged, getting married, having babies…and as the meme I so often see says, “people having babies and I’m like, what country am I going to next!?” The funny thing about American Lauren vs. Thailand-influenced Lauren is that the former planned out her every move. Not just planned, but planned VERY far in advance. While I’m still very much a planner at heart, I’ve learned to let go quite a bit. I’ve watched things work out rather well with last minute planning.I’ve decided to leave my current school and find a job in Bangkok. I have a couple leads at this point in time for teaching gigs, but I’m not opposed to taking a corporate job either. I’ve done things a little ass backwards, and I’ll tell you why. A friend from high school was kind enough to put me in touch with a girl who lived in Bangkok before I left the states. He thought it’d be helpful to have at least one person to contact if I needed to. Well, a huge thank you to Justin Stewart because Christa has been a fantastic resource and friend. The other day she informed me that a Bangkok apartment I’d been interested in was opening up. I visited the property and agreed to take it all in the span of one day. It’s adorable, affordable, on the 27th floor, and right down the hall from Christa. I didn’t see that one coming when I woke up Sunday morning. It came out of left field, but it was the exact push I needed to make a decision. I’d been considering Bangkok for a while, but was also contemplating hopping over to Indonesia to teach. Sometimes things just make sense (I’m a firm believer in signs) and that day it all seemed to be falling into place. So, I have an apartment! Oddly enough, I’m not concerned about finding a job. I’m a native English speaker who now has some experience under her belt, and in Thailand that makes you a hot commodity. So, in addition to the ongoing job search, I have about 2 ½ months of traveling planned. I can’t complain. The itinerary is as such:

    I’m in Bali for 7 full days of villa lounging, sunrise hiking, and volcano exploring bliss.

    I’m spending my 28th birthday on the beautiful island of Koh Samui.

    I’m spending Songkran, the Thai New Year (mid-April) up north in Chiang Mai.

    Oh, and I’m getting my first tattoo in Bangkok after the beachy trips and Songkran water fights are over. There. I put it in writing so there’s no backing out now.

    Lastly, (drum roll, please) my dear, sweet, travel-phobic mother is making her first international trip to visit me mid-May. I anticipate spending a few days in Bangkok and then taking her down south to experience the islands. This is a big deal, and it makes me infinitely happy to have the privilege of touring her around one of the most beautiful countries in the world (and as she’s soon to discover, one of the hottest).

    I’m going to attempt to go to sleep now, despite the fact that I’m currently fearing for my life. I’ve blockaded a spider the size of my head in my bathroom. If I got close to it I swear it’d eat me, so I’ve closed the door, put a towel at the bottom, and pushed a bookcase up against it. This villa was so close to perfection…

    Until next time.

    Xo

  • It’s the Most Wonderful Time of the Year…

    There’s a certain degree of depression that is inherent when experiencing life in ways that are both powerful and beautiful beyond words. I imagine people see my various social medias and assume that I’m on cloud 9 here in Thailand- and a lot of the time I am. I am happy and I am certainly counting my lucky stars. There is a side effect to this happiness, however. When you are lucky enough to live moments that have surpassed many others in your life thus far, there is a crippling downfall that inevitably follows. I realize that I sound like a complete and total ingrate, but believe me when I say it’s a double-edged sword. Once the bar is raised, it takes a lot of work to maintain that level of happiness. It’s why people come home from vacations and fall into a deep depression. It’s the extreme highs that make you completely reevaluate your life. They make you insatiable. They make you wonder if the life you left behind will ever really satisfy you. They make you addicted to travel. This is what moving to Thailand has done to me. This country is a thought-provoking bitch, and it got even worse when I got a delicious taste of the south of Thailand.But. Before I tackle the epic vacation topic- I’d like to touch on how I spent my first Christmas away from home in 27 years. I never imagined I’d find an ounce of holiday cheer here in Thailand. After all, it’s a country with a Buddhist population of about 95%. Something I’ve learned about Thai people, however, is that they love a good party and they will use any excuse to throw one. I was warned that there would be some Christmas activities at school on the 25th, but to what extent, I had no idea. The other thing about Thailand, as I’m sure I’ve said before, is that you never know what’s going to happen until it’s happening. This is kind of how it went when we (Sara, Hillary, and myself) were informed that we’d be dancing to “Jingle Bell Rock” in front of the entire school. We had one day’s notice. Sara, the one decent dancer in the group, got sick and was out, so Hillary and I spent the 24th watching YouTube videos and attempting to choreograph an acceptable routine. The language barrier made it difficult to decipher just which part of the song we were responsible for, because our 3 male coworkers and some students were dancing as well. As a result, we choreographed the whole thing just in case. I mean, it wouldn’t be outlandish to think that Channel 3 might show up to broadcast us on national television- you literally just never know. Towards the end of the day on the 24th, the students informed us that we would be performing on our own as well as with them. We had a whole new dance to learn. Did I mention that I was blessed with two left feet?

    On the 25th we were allowed to deviate from the monotonous weekly dress code, so I showed up to school in a candy-cane red shirt with matching lips, jeans, and a santa hat and reindeer ears which I interchanged throughout the day. The morning assembly was…different. It included the foreign department doing the “chicken dance” on a stage. It also included the Mayor of Pathumthani, aka “Chanta Claus” standing at the edge of the stage and literally “making it rain” 20 baht notes into a crowd of screaming children. Normal. I only taught one class in the morning, and I use the word “taught” loosely. We sang Christmas songs and colored elves and Christmas trees. At the end of the class, I put the pictures up on the whiteboard (Thai kids have coloring abilities that put me to shame) and had them all yell “Merry Christmas” to my friends and family back home via an iPhone video. After class it was activity time. The large hall at school was chock full of students, and our performance was one of the first items on the agenda (granted I didn’t know this until 2 minutes before showtime). We assembled on the stage and began with our student-teacher dance, which considering the amount of preparation time, was quite coordinated. This transitioned into our trio’s performance, which also went surprisingly well, and ended with the boys and their fancy footwork. The rest of the afternoon was spent manning the ice cream station (this assignment proves that they know me well around here.)

    When school ended, the day was far from over. We had a party to attend. It was a cowboy-themed evening, with the alternative option of wearing Christmas colors. I was all cowboyed out, having to dress as such every Friday anyway, so I opted for the Christmas colors. We were driven to the same place our Loy Krathong parade was held- better known as the giant field of mud. The event had quite a showing, and the area was filled with tables, some with bales of hay as seating. The Thais were all dressed in cowboy attire, and there was live music with lavishly dressed dancers on the big stage at the front. Food and drink were free, so we indulged in some beers and consequently danced the night away. There isn’t a ton of interaction with the Thais at our school, but tonight language barriers were of no consequence. When there’s alcohol and music present, words really aren’t needed. We had a blast dancing together. Afterwards, we went home and faced the tedious task of packing. We bought ourselves a nice little Christmas gift this year- a much needed vacation to the south of Thailand.

    Disclaimer: general overviews are fun and all, but I’m switching things up a bit with the following account of my trip to the south. It’s more of a story, and a really, really long one at that. It’s not going to be as surface-level as usual, either. This contains a bit more detail, at least as much as I feel comfortable sharing with the general public (and even then I may be crossing the line) but, this is me. Apologies if I’ve offended anyone. So, here we go:On the 26th, we left school early and headed for the airport. We had 9 full days of vacation ahead of us, and this was the first chance to really travel beyond a long weekend since arriving here. Our first stop was Krabi, a quick 2 hour flight that we took in lieu of the alternative 12 hour bus ride. Flights are relatively cheap in Thailand, so unless you’re really on a budget, the difference in travel time is pretty significant. We arrived in Krabi around 8 pm and headed to our hotel. It was booked super last minute, and was the cost of a good sandwich back in the states. That being said, it was no surprise when we walked into the worst hotel room we’d seen yet. The stench that radiated from that place was rancid. Sara accurately declared that her shit was an air freshener in comparison. But we had a ferry to catch in the morning, so we held our breath when possible and went to sleep. We got up early to both escape the fumes and get some breakfast. In touristy spots like these you’re able to find Western food quite easily, and so I splurged on a chocolate/banana waffle at ’89 Cafe. After breakfast we checked out of our fragrant hotel and were picked up by our favorite paddy-wagon-like vehicle that took us to the pier where our ferry to Koh Phi Phi would depart.

    The plan was Bangkok —> Krabi —> Koh Phi Phi —> Phuket —>Bangkok. The way the geography was set up was like an upside down U-shape. Krabi was on the eastern tip of this upside-down U, and Phuket was on the western part. Koh Phi Phi is an island that is equidistant between the two in the Andaman sea. We departed for Phi Phi on Saturday at noon, and enjoyed a beautiful ride past Thailand’s very characteristic limestone mountains. We docked at a colorful and busy pier full of Thai men holding signs bearing various resort and hotel names. We carried on by with our suitcases, assuming we’d hail ourselves a cab and find our hotel, but there was only one problem. Taxis don’t exist on Koh Phi Phi. The island, it turned out, does not have real roads. It is a walking island, which became one of my favorite features, but only after getting our heavy luggage to the hotel. It didn’t take long before we realized that this hotel was a vast improvement from our stay the previous night, and even then by American standards most would scoff. We’re on a bit of a budget however, and there’s no sense in spending loads on accommodations when you will hardly be spending time in the room. We dropped off our things and went for lunch- a big, juicy hamburger on foccacia bread and a strawberry daiquiri at Unni’s. From there, the crazy photographer in me rushed the girls over to the beach in time for sunset. It was a very worthy cause. We headed back to our room to shower and get ready for our first night out on the island.

    I’d like to take a moment to describe the general geography and population of the island of Koh Phi Phi. I can only speak for what I assume is one of the most popular island holidays, NYE, and cannot be sure that my findings are consistently the case. I’ve visited several islands prior to this point, so I can safely say that what I discovered is not common elsewhere. Imagine one of the most naturally beautiful islands in the world (wikipedia said so) that is so small that your mode of transportation is limited to walking and long tail boats. There are no roads. There are no taxis. There are no cars. Now imagine all of the beautiful countries of the world. Imagine that each country contributed handfuls of their most beautiful people….and then sent them to the small, concentrated island of Koh Phi Phi. In addition to this absolutely baffling sea of stunning people, I’d say the average age on the island was 24 (damnit, I’m old), and the predominant gender was men. Of these men, many possessed qualities that I’ve recently decided are undeniably attractive- beards and tattoos. God must have had a divine hand in this.

    Back to the story. After meeting some new friends, of Dutch and New Zealand origin if I remember correctly, it only seemed sensible to head down to the beach, which was lined with numerous bars and nightclubs. It didn’t take the girls and I long to decide we’d rather not be tied to these foreigners, and we decided we “had to go to the bathroom” and made a run for it- a risky move on an island where there’s not too many places to hide. We ran until summoned into what would become our go-to spot on the island- The Banana Bar. We climbed the winding spiral staircase to find a large but low-key bar, boasting several bar areas, beer pong tables, and a rooftop with additional higher set platforms with views of the island. We decided it’d be fun to drop a few baht for a game of beer pong. We met some Canadians, one whose friendship was solidified by the Red Sox hat he was wearing, and played a few games. The end of the night was pretty uneventful: Hillary got tired and peaced, Sara and I got hungry and scarfed down some rare and delicious street pizza, and we all crashed. We can’t know what time that was.The night before necessitated sleeping in, and so we gathered our thoughts and our dignity and headed out to explore the island. The Phi Phi Viewpoint was recommended to us by a weird and stocky bald man who falsely proclaimed to be gay during our sunset watch the prior day. Despite his chronic lying, we took his advice and made the very steep climb to the mountaintop viewpoint. The view from the top was incredible. Limestone mountains, lush green vegetation and palms, a strip of boomerang shaped land separating the side of the island where the ferry docks at the pier and the beach near which our hotel was located. We befriended an English couple, who were of Indian ethnicity, and spent some time hearing their adorable love story. Gurpreet and Amar are 5 years apart (Gurpreet being my own age) and met at a wedding when Gurpeet was 17. Her mother had forced her to go, and she reluctantly went. That night she met Amar. They chatted for a bit but when she left she didn’t take any of his contact information, nor did she even remember his name. Years later he found her on Facebook. They started chatting and catching up, which soon evolved into dating. They’re now married. They were so kind, and we took turns photographing each other and took a photo together (something we need to do more often with the people we meet abroad). On our descent from the viewpoint we got a call from fellow Greenhearter and Colorado-native Kirstie, and met up for lunch. The climbing and full bellies put us all into a comatose state, and we decided to take a nap. We woke up bright-eyed and bushy-tailed, and we were ready for night 2.

    We headed to Banana Bar for some legit Western food and Thailand’s notoriously dangerous buckets. My joy was unparalleled when I discovered my favorite dish on the menu- PENNE ALFREDO AND CHICKEN! Highlight moment right here. AND, it was delicious. You can find “Western” food relatively easily in Thailand, but having it actually be pleasant to eat is a feat all its own. Sara and I split a pina colada bucket. In the interest of saving precious baht, we beelined it for the nearest Fresh Mart (not 7 Eleven for once) and drank Spy and beer like alcoholic Hey Arnold stoop kids outside. The raised stoop gave us a great vantage point for people watching, and apparently for people to watch us as well, because a handsome guy stopped in his tracks and goes, “Hillary?” Allow me to introduce Bob- Hillary’s very attractive Tinder match who comes from the Netherlands, but currently resides in Paris, France. Bob designs cars for a prestigious motor vehicle company there. Bob is a tall, dark, handsome, and slightly squinty-eyed 33 year old who speaks French, Dutch, English, and German. Bob sounds like male perfection with the exception of his terrible name (if you’re reading this, sorry Bob.) Bob came with an entourage of friends, also from the Netherlands. They were a truly amazing collection of men. They were sincere and fun and had personalities that were literally worth writing home about. We parted ways only to meet up again soon after down at the beach. Slinky’s is the more popular beach club, characterized by ear-drum threatening music and a stage full of pure debauchery. Like, naked man on a pedestal being inappropriate beyond words kind of debauchery. Much dancing ensued until we could dance no more- the music stopped at 3 am. We walked Kirstie home to her bungalow, obscurely set up in the hills a decent trek away. It was an amusing residence. A slug of sorts had landed on her bed, leaving a slimy trail, and there was a tree stump, dead center, protruding out of the floor in her bathroom. On our way back to our own hotel, we bumped into an older Australian gentleman who informed me that he was from Sydney. As most know by know, the word “Sydney” usually results in a surge of adrenaline in my body, so my gushing about the country began and I expressed my desire to get a job there. This led to him taking my name for a Facebook request that would never come. Oh well.

    Day 3:My body was impressive and decided it would power through and live yet another day on Koh Phi Phi. We walked out of our hotel and the first thing I saw was, to my surprise, the very same Australian guy sitting on the curb across the “street”. “Australian!?” I called with a hint of a question in my voice. He looked at us, initially confused, until I explained that he was the last person we saw before going home last night and a light turned on. He took my name for a second time- also not resulting in a friend request. I’ll chalk it up to there being a lot of Lauren Carey’s in the world. It was thanks to this gentleman and his friend that we were encouraged to go check out Long Beach, which would require a 100 baht per person long tail boat ride. We figured Long Beach would be a relaxing and ideal place to hang out for the day. I’d been photographing long tail boats left and right, but had yet to take one for a ride. We climbed aboard and our 100 baht was well-spent as we sped through the see-through water, past more breathtaking limestone mountains. We turned the corner of a bay to see a much quieter resort-style beach. Our first task was to find someone who would rent us out three chairs for the afternoon, and after a bit of asking around, our mission was accomplished. It was a wonderful, stress-free afternoon, and I swam around rather blissfully in the ocean and rested on the beach, while reading my new book, “If I Stay”. I’ll admit it did make me cry within the first 5 minutes of reading it. I take this reaction to be a testament of good writing, so there’s my recommendation for the day if you’re looking for a new book (and are a similarly aged emotional female.)

    As we’re sitting in our chairs, I felt intermittent splashes of water on my skin. This wasn’t surprising, the dark clouds slowly blanketing the sky above us gave them away quite some time beforehand. We decided it’d be a wise decision to grab some lunch and packed up our things. Within seconds of sitting down at a nearby restaurant, the sky opened up to an absolute deluge, the wind blowing the rain into the wall-less restaurant. The entire beach decided our restaurant was the place to go, and I’m not sure there were many other options besides. This resulted in terrible service and even more terrible food. When the rain gave way to a drizzle, we decided to make a run for a long tail and get back to the main ferry port. With the weather as it was, oil massages and pedicures sounded like lovely ways to spend the afternoon. We dropped our things off at the hotel and started scouring the streets for a massage place that didn’t completely creep us out. The first place we found was too busy, and our laziness got the better of us when we found a place with availability- albeit it a bit dark. Our section of 3 beds was enclosed by a big pink curtain, and we were instructed to remove all of our clothes, except our underwear.

    (WARNING, THIS IS ABOUT TO GET SLIGHTLY AWKWARD) We did as we were told and flipped over onto our stomachs. I closed my eyes. My masseuse, a woman, started with my legs as I had become accustomed to. It was generally relaxing, and she hit on all the normal spots- my feet, my legs, my butt, my back. She asked me to flip over, and as I’d expected, she put a towel where a towel should go. Again, the massage was routine and she gave attention first to my legs, and slowly moved upwards. She then proceeded to slather my stomach with oil, and remove my towel. I could hear a bit of commotion coming from my left where Hillary and Sara were laying. Some nervous giggles, some laughing, and then I realized I wasn’t the only one whose towel had just been removed. I took on the “mai pen rai” attitude, and as we all laughed about later, “just let it happen”. I proceeded to have my chest sensually massaged by a woman. Apparently this isn’t entirely uncommon, but I’m not all that sure it’s standard Thai massage procedure either. I’m sure it’s not the weirdest thing that’s happened to me whilst in Thailand, nor will it be the last. The sketchiest part of all? The security camera aimed in the general direction of the massage area. Did I just contribute to some weird internet porn? Maybe. Afterwards, our masseuse took us down to the road to see her friend who runs a mani/pedi business and got some neon yellow on my toes. A nap was in order, so we took a siesta, and then rolled out of bed to get some dinner. Guess where we went? Yup. Banana Bar.

    I ordered my penne chicken alfredo once again (when you find a good thing in this country, you stick with it, especially because who knows when you’ll ever see it again) and during dinner we struck up conversation with the two guys sitting at the table parallel to ours (shoutout to our fellow North Americans, Canadians Andy and Kevin). Andy inquired as to how the food was, and this simple conversation starter snowballed into a lengthy discussion and story-telling. Before we knew it, it was 9 or 10 pm. We still looked like homeless beach women, so we had to excuse ourselves and run home to get ready. At this point, none of us had any real desire to go out for a third consecutive night…so we half-assed our typically grueling routine and headed out fairly quickly. To Banana Bar. We don’t like change, ok!? Bob and his crew of highly entertaining Dutchmen met us out and we surpassed the hours of the bar for yet another night in a row.

    Day 4: A day of epic proportions

    Four days in and somehow I woke up and felt surprisingly fresh. So far so good, I thought, and I was sincerely impressed by my ability to hang with the youngins on this island. I looked over to find my two little nuggets fast asleep. Hillary was particularly amusing, with her eye mask securely fastened, ear plugs in, all while cuddling her stuffed monkey, Harry. I took a picture for good measure. We knew today was going to be a damn good day- we’d booked Bob’s Booze Cruise- a 6 hour and 2,500 baht sailboat cruise around Phi Phi. If you ever go there, DO IT. We got up early so we could do a little shopping before the boat took off at 1:00 pm. We glammed up slightly, well aware of the plethora of pictures that would be taken, and headed for the pier. On our way, we were visually stunned once more by the unparalleled caliber of men. Now, we’ve learned a few things in Thai over the past 3 months- directions being among the few words that have stuck. Left = si right = quoi straight = trompei. Also, chai (yes) mai chai (no) and the ever-popular mai ow (don’t want). With so many beautiful men roaming about, we got into the habit of shouting out a direction, followed by “chai chai chai”. Example: I spot a tall, tattooed, bearded man and shout “si! si! chai! chai!” Translation: “there is one hot ass muthafucka to your left, don’t miss it.” I can’t even apologize for acting this way. It was such a mind-boggling collection of people that I assure you, you would have done the same.

    Cut to 1:00 pm and 20 or so of us are packing on a sailboat emblazoned with “Bob’s Booze Cruise” on the side. I had made a comment earlier in the morning that I hoped there would be no attractive people on our boat so that I could just relax and not think twice about my inevitable beer gut, etc. My wish was granted because there weren’t any at all, with the exception of a couple crew members. The weather was perfectly warm and sunny, and we sailed off, leaving the colorful pier in the distance. We cruised along towards our first stop: Monkey Beach. The boat anchored a bit off shore, and we were instructed to hop off and swim on over to a very small, white sandy beach full of go-pro wielding vacationers. Leave it up to me. If anyone out there thinks I’m even the slightest bit graceful, it won’t take me long to prove you wrong. I clumsily hop over the side of the boat into the ocean and start doggy-paddling, I mean, swimming, towards the shore. The water was the kind of crystal clear ocean you dream about and see in magazines. The limestone cliffs towered above me and left me awe-struck. My go-pro was attached to my wrist-housing and I was capturing the lovely scene when my foot swiftly kicked what I can only assume was the razor sharp edge of a piece of coral. “OUCH!” you can hear me scream in the go-pro video, followed by the bubbles as my arms somersault underwater. When one foot kicked it, the other jumped out to gain my balance and inevitably did the exact same thing. Double ouch. I could tell the cut was probably not as superficial as I’d have liked. When I got to the beach, the blood was apparent. Slices on 6 out of my 10 toes, the more severe being on my right foot. The blood incessantly flowed, but there were cute little monkeys on the beach, so I hobbled along and ignored the pain. This isn’t the first time I’ve seen wild monkeys, so perhaps the novelty factor had worn off, because I took a few photos and was ready to carry on. Worrying slightly about my foot, and strange bits of information I thought I’d heard about the dangers of coral, I asked Captain Bob what he thought. “What, do you want a bandaid?” he said almost a bit too offensively for my taste. “I’m just making sure it’s not a big deal” I replied. “It should be fine” he said. Well, Captain Bob, I’ll tell ya it’s over a week later and it still effin hurts. I still love you and your booze cruise, though. But anyways. Sara and I hopped on a kayak and got an escort back to the boat.

    Up to this point, no alcohol had been offered and we were soon facing a cliff jump. If I felt like alcohol was necessary at any point during this cruise, it was then. Back in 2008, when I spent a semester abroad in Australia, I had zero qualms about sky diving or bungee jumping. Ok maybe a few qualms, but I was more than excited to do it. Cliff jumping however was one invitation I’d adamantly passed up on. It comes down to a control factor. There are people and security measures outside of your control when it comes to sky diving and bungee jumping. The person tandem on your back, the bungee cord around your ankles. There’s an art to it all, an expected and precise action and outcome. Sure, accidents do happen with both of these activities, but nothing that would ever fail because of something I did or didn’t do. I looked at cliff jumping a bit differently. First, there’s getting up the cliff. There’s liability in and of that itself. Second, there’s the actual jumping. What if I don’t jump quite far enough? What if I slip? Rocks are not something my body wants to come into contact with at high velocity. Third, the unknown. Maybe, just maybe, there’s a reverse stalagmite waiting for me down there. But, despite my better judgment, this was a fear I wanted to conquer. Once again we sailed off and anchored the boat close by the side of a seemingly never-ending wall of limestone. There were people jumping off from two points- off of a tree, and a bit lower off the rock ledge. Fear instantly spread throughout my entire body. I’m still not sure how, but after a moment’s hesitation I found myself a pair of crocs, as instructed, and jumped off the boat, swimming towards the base of the upwards climb. It was a steep and jagged climb, but with more than enough hand and footholds to support me. Vaughan, a friend from Greenheart, climbed ahead of me and I followed in her steps, my legs literally trembling. When I reached the top, Hillary was standing at the edge of the lower jump, ready to go. I turned on my go-pro and watched as she literally dropped off the side of the cliff, my vantage point similar to that of my remote falling off the end of my bed. Can’t see where it went, but it went somewhere. A few other booze cruisers took the plunge, and then it was Sara’s turn. The look of fear on her face almost paralyzed my own legs, but after a few seconds of hesitation, she mustered up the gumption and launched herself as well. I can’t be sure but I think I went right after Sara. I turned my go-pro on, and inched towards the edge towards crew member Seth, stationed to steady my newborn-deer-like tremble. Hesitation is the death of bravery, so I shut off the voices in my head, positioned my right foot forward, bent from the knees, and sprung off the cliff. I did my best impression of a human pencil, holding my nose the whole way down. I hit the water quite impactfully as indicated by the giant wedgie I received.
    After the cliff jump, we climbed back into the boat, but not before experiencing the stinging sensation of what was described as sea lice. We started the journey over to Maya Bay, the infamous location of “The Beach”. It took a little while to get there, so the drinks started flowing. Once again we docked away from the destination and had to swim our asses over there, an increasingly difficult task. The current was not working in my favor on this one, either. I eventually made it to a huge net that went up the rock wall and clumsily climbed my way to the top in bright pink oversized crocs. A short walk along a path and we came upon the tourist-clad Maya Bay. I was able to see past the swarms of people and appreciate it’s beauty, but only momentarily. We were rushed through to get back out to the boat, this time having to go down the giant net. Luckily, dependable Dave and his kayak swooped us up for a ride back. From there, we took a much longer sail over to a different bay, which boasts a special cave. I snuck my way up to the front of the boat, and threw my legs over the side, drink in hand. It was a truly serene feeling. My feet skimmed the water and dipped into the ocean with every downward plunge the boat made. The sun was getting lower in the sky, sparkling on the water for as far as the eye could see. To my right, the limestone cliffs made me feel so appreciative of my own life and the world’s magnificent natural beauty. I just sat there in a state of complete and utter happiness. It’s cheesy, but true.

    We made it to the next stop, and once more, swam from the boat another daunting distance. This time, I brought a scuba mask. Colorful fish companions make the trek a lot more entertaining. We swam into an opening in the rock. It was dry initially, and then gave way to a water filled space with a rather strong current whooshing back and forth. I grabbed for the wall to keep my balance, the amount of headroom above me minimal at times. For some reason I’ve always loved the thrill of situations like these- it’s dark, you’re in a small space trying to find your way, there’s a little element of danger…it’s just fun. From there we made our way into another cave, which required a climb up a rope to get into the mouth of it. Also quite dark, but lots more living space. Captain Bob gave us a brief history lesson about the drawings on the cave walls. He had to really butter up some Thai people to gain access to this cave- which not a lot of people know about apparently. Normally I would take that comment as a ploy to make us feel unique and special, but I actually do believe it’s an infrequently visited site. The only piece of information I recall is that the drawings were carbon dated to upwards of 800 years old. Fierce looking people with weapons and big ships lined the walls. Pretty cool stuff. As we made our way back out to the boat, the sun was setting. The opening to the bay in which we were was quite small. There was a gap between two limestone cliffs through which you could see the setting sun. It was stunning. I bobbed there in the water and stared at it. The view of the water at eye level with the surrounding cliffs and the sliver of sunset was just unreal. There aren’t enough adjectives in the English dictionary to accurately describe what my eyes witnessed that day.The rest of the vacation was wonderful, and I’ll spare you an even longer novel than this already has become- but suffice it to say that I’ve covered most of the highlights of the trip (at least the ones I feel comfortable divulging.) I met some truly amazing people in those few days down south from quite literally all over the world. I was able to ring in the New Year on an island with amazing friends, old and new, and I wouldn’t have spent it any other way. I suppose it’s noteworthy to say that from Koh Phi Phi we made the trip over to Phuket. We actually extended our stay in Koh Phi Phi because we loved it so much, so it’s hard to say how much our hangovers/depression about leaving the island impacted our first impressions of Phuket. Regardless, those first impressions weren’t very good. The best part of going to Phuket was our posh hotel room, covers on the bed, a lot of sleep, and seeing the faces of our TESOL friends, who we met up with there. If it’s travel advice you’re looking for- I’d spend your precious time on an island instead. Phuket did have some scenic and beautiful beaches, I won’t discredit it there, but the atmosphere is just sketchy and dirty. This is specific to Patong Beach, I can’t really speak for anywhere else. It was reminiscent of Khao San Road in Bangkok or Pattaya, the kind of overcrowded tourist traps I’ve seen enough of at this point in my stay.

    Well, if you actually made it to the bottom of this- I’m highly impressed. This is what happens when I go a month without blogging. I’ve declared it sober/money-saving January, so there probably won’t be much to speak of in the coming weeks until another event or epic trip provokes me to write another mini-novel. If you’re in the states right now, keep warm! xoxo

  • Elephant Island

    So despite Pathum Thani being a little bit of a buzzkill in terms of a place of residence- there is the perk of it’s proximity to Bangkok. Anywhere I want to go I can get to via the airports/trains/buses that can be found in that chaotic hub of a capital. This has become an invaluable benefit to my life. The weeks seem to fly by in a way that is completely contradictory to my aforementioned “Thai Time” which connotes a leisurely pace. I don’t feel like the days really “drag” as they did back home. My schedule is manageable and my free time is rather abundant. The beauty of this set up is that I have a pretty quick school week bookended by warm-weather weekends that allow for travel. It took almost two months to get to this point, but now that I’m settled into my routine it’s easy to plan and bang out some amazing mini-vacations!

    The first of these mini vacations took place the weekend of November 21st. The destination was Koh Chang, also known as Elephant Island, a beautiful getaway off of Trat. The trip was approximately 5 hours south of Bangkok, made easier by an overnight pit stop in Pattaya, sometimes referred to as Thailand’s own Sin City. The most amazing part of traveling in this country is the cost. For a hotel room in Pattaya, you could get away with spending 750 baht, or about $23 USD per night. And if you’re not traveling alone? That’s $23 divided by 2. Boom. I wasn’t able to form much of an opinion of Pattaya due to lack of time spent there, but the girls and I did give the famous Walking Street a visit. There are things I saw while on this street that I unfortunately cannot unsee- and due to a widespread audience I don’t feel entirely comfortable detailing. I’ve never been to Vegas, but I imagine the caliber of these two places may be similar. After a night of scarring my eyeballs, we snuck 5 hours of sleep in before an early wake up to check out Pattaya’s beach and to finish the trek to Koh Chang. The strip along the beach had a bit of a Fort Lauderdale/Miami feel to it. Unfortunately the beach itself was nearly nonexistent, as the tide rushed up almost to the seawall. Regardless, a beach is a beach and especially if it has a “Pattaya” sign reminiscent of “Hollywood” in the hills…I’m stopping to photograph it. We carried on a few more hours down to Trat, where we would catch the ferry over to Koh Chang, all the while belting out Disney songs to pass the time.

    The ferry ride over to Koh Chang was more than pleasant, and I snapped away at the teal blue waters and lush islands in the distance. We had already set up an activity for the evening- an elephant trek through the jungle- and went straight there upon arriving at the pier. We were a bit late, but in typical Thai fashion, there was no penalty and they were more than happy to accommodate us. Imagine driving through the jungle, and coming upon a village decorated with huts and hammocks and random elephants milling about. There seemed to be no other people in sight, and as soon as we arrived, we were summoned to a platform on which to mount the elephants. I am sure there are a lot of people out there who have strong opinions regarding the ethics of such a thing, and I can’t say I agree or disagree on the matter. All I can say is that they were fed and treated well in my presence. I spent a solid hour gallavanting in the woods atop this monstrous (and prickly) creature, praying to God it didn’t decide to go off course or do something to result in an epuc fall. The trek took place during that glorious thing called the “golden hour” during which time the sun cast a mesmerizing glow on everything. It was so peaceful and to call it “touristy” would be a lie. It was extremely intimate, and aside from the people in your party, it was just one huge elephant and one trainer accompanying you. My Go Pro camera was perfect for this excursion (I didn’t know what to expect and was terrified to bring my Canon) so I took numerous videos and pictures to capture what I can honestly say was one of the neater experiences I’ve had in my life. After the trek, we went down with the elephants to bathe them. This is the only time during the excursion that I saw other people, and even still it was a small group. We jumped into the less than warm water with the elephant, and luckily on the occasions that I slid right off of its back, it didn’t sit on me. It is unreal being that close to an animal of that size. To finish the evening off we fed them some bananas, during which point I thought my Go Pro was going to become elephant food. Luckily, it did not and I left the excursion with both my life and my electronics.

    From the elephant trek, we checked into our hotel which was, for lack of more eloquent words, freakin’ amazing. There’s certain things you envision a place to be, and before I came to Thailand I had this idea in my head that I’d stay in a cute little bungalow in the jungle, complete with mosquito nets and waterfall shower. Oasis Resort was exactly this. It was also reminiscent of the movie Hook… I felt like a lost boy. Anyway. There was a street, along which were many small hotels. Ours was at the very end, and at the very top, of a very steep hill. The lobby was essentially a giant tree house. A giant, beautiful tree house. The lobby had its own restaurant, complete with low tables and comfy little cushions to sit on. Best part? A very Western food menu, as the owners were from Holland. There was a spiral staircase that took you to a little look out at the tippity top, from which you could see the ocean and an island in the distance. An absolutely breathtaking view. We had dinner at the hotel and went to bed fairly early. The nighttime sounds out in that bungalow were as strange as they were amazing, and despite the giant holes through which anything could creep, no A/C, and a giant mosquito net draped over the bed, I was beyond happy and slept like a rock.

    The next morning Sara and I woke up extra early to do a little exploring, and made our way to the ocean and wandered through a quiet, little street of not yet opened shops and restaurants. We had breakfast up in the treehouse and waited for the songthaew to arrive that would take us to our morning snorkeling adventure. It brought us to a private boat, where we had a driver spend about four hours with us island hopping. This was the first time I felt like I was getting a piece of the luxurious paradise that I had imagined. Our driver took us to four different spots. In America, there would have been paperwork to sign, safety regulations to review…but in Thailand there is no such thing. You throw on a snorkel, some flippers, and hop into the ocean. We spent our day just swimming around crystal-clear waters, and occasionally lounging on white sandy beaches. I took some of the most beautiful pictures I think I’ve ever taken in my life- and hopefully this is just the beginning! Unfortunately, duty calls and we had to leave the island shortly after those four blissful hours and spend six less than blissful ones in a car headed back to Pathum Thani. Fortunately, my kids are cute and their constant smiles make the transition back to school a little bit easier. My next island adventure is coming up this weekend, December 5th-7th. The 5th is the King’s Birthday here in Thailand, so many thanks to him for giving me a long weekend for traveling. I’m very curious to see how the different islands compare. I’ll be heading to Koh Samet, which is not quite as far as Koh Chang and much closer to Pattaya. Hope everyone back home is keeping warm- if you need a change of climate, you know where to find me!

  • My Thai Movie

    There’s this crazy phenomenon here in Thailand called “Thai Time”. It’s essentially the notion that nothing will ever happen when you think it will. Schedules and meeting times are flimsy little things that have limited significance on this side of the world. Class is from 8:20-9:10, you say? They’ll show up at 8:40. The van will pick me up at 7? Don’t bother coming downstairs until 7:30. The gym is open until 9 pm? It’s been dark and locked all day. You never quite know what to expect, so you learn not to expect. That being said, my iMovie debut must have been on Thai Time as it took approximately EIGHT HOURS to upload to YouTube. Thank you very much, Thai internet.So I’m nearly a full two months in here in Thailand, and you’ve read all about it and seen plenty of photos. I decided to give iMovie a shot and compile all the video clips I’ve collected over the past 8 weeks. Hope you enjoy it!

    If you’re particularly bored at work today and have a few more minutes- I had the absolute honor of being an ambassador for Greenheart Travel. Check out this video made by the very talented Liam Kelly. It’s a fantastic portrayal of my first month here in Thailand and something I am so grateful to be able to watch again and again now and down the road!
  • No Rain On Our Parade…

    This country makes me feel. It makes me think. It makes me introspective and reflective. It inspires me to see the rest of the world and to set aside the conventions and expectations that a lot of people associate with a successful life.
    The morning of the 6th we came to school (totally makeup-less, mind you) and taught most of our morning classes. Afterwards, it was time to make the transformation. Luckily for us, our Thai assistant is an AMAZING hair and makeup artist in her free time. Sara went first, and by the time I came back from class, she looked like a Disney princess if ever Thailand had one. I generally hate having my hair done, but this girl is an absolute genius. I’ve actually found that Thais in general are pretty phenomenal hair stylists. At the rate my hair is growing over here, I think soon enough I’ll even entrust them with a cut and color. I couldn’t tell you how long it took, but I’d say an hour later I had more makeup on than a lady boy and a hairstyle bigger and more teased than an 80’s pop star. Sara was having a rough day with her phone being stolen and all, so I took one for the team and opted to wear the pink costume that we were all trying to avoid. For 3 girls, I find it pretty surprising that none of us like pink. Getting into this costume was almost equally as time consuming as the the hair and makeup. So much wrapping and pinning and accessorizing with golden jewelry and belts and arm cuffs and cross-body chains. Hillary followed suit, and after a quick Edward Scissorhands hair phase, a third Disney princess was born.

    Our students were beyond excited to see us and watched us get ready nearly the entire time. We took pictures until we were summoned by the Vice Director to hop in his car and go meet our float. The Vice Director is a really great guy, and we stopped and got some coffee and chatted a bit before meeting up with our float- a decorated truck that was literally mid-drive down the street heading towards the parade route. We hopped out of our own car and jumped up onto our three chairs set up in the bed of the big truck. The day was hot as all hell, and the heat from the truck shot right up our skirts to boot. From the street we hooked a left into what I can only describe as a giant field of mud, and so began our parade. The smiles we received from the Thai people were priceless. Dressed in our finest, we drove through the mud, waved, and tortured our faces with permanent smiles. We drove beside the river, which was beautifully decorated with giant floating lotus flowers. These lotus flowers were being made at the school in the weeks leading up to the day. We watched the Thais stitch the vibrant pink and green fabric that would come together to make the flower and it’s leaves. Our parade came to a stop shortly after a truck a few cars up from us got lodged in the mud. We hopped out onto what felt like molding clay and I tried my best to keep my shoes above surface level. We took more photos with passersby until the decision was made to head out and change so that we could comfortably send our own krathongs off at a nearby temple and river. When we got there, we bought our own krathongs for 20 baht (less than $1 USD) and made wishes before releasing them into the river. It’s really a beautiful sight to see them all floating together. At the risk of sounding corny, it really warmed my heart that our school held us in such high esteem and allowed us to be in their parade. If ever you move to or visit Thailand, I can assure you that a day will never pass where you don’t receive the most genuine of smiles or a compliment. I can have a TERRIBLE class- but my students will still tell me they missed me or give me a hug. Even on the worst day, there’s always SOMEONE that will brighten it up with kind words or gestures.

    Another stand out moment since my last post would have to be our visit to a sunflower field. This is something I’ve been waiting to see for quite some time. You can find sunflower fields in a lot of places- even back home- but I just never made the time. The Mayor of Pathumthani requested our presence at the opening event for this GORGEOUS field of sunflowers which happened to be located a short distance from our school. We were told there would be news crews in attendance and to dress formally. Again, the day could not be any hotter as we wandered around the field in the direct sunlight dressed in formal attire. I loved every second of it, though. Luckily, my sweat drenched self wasn’t apparent in pictures and we had a field day with our cameras. We took pictures with the mayor and gave interviews for the TV crew (completely on the spot- I have no idea what words even came out of my mouth but I’ve been informed that it did air on the news). Some of our students were present and took us down to the river to feed the large and hungry fish. I can’t stress enough how wonderful these kids are- they love their foreign teachers in a way that I personally have never seen back in America. Like many others, this was an experience that’s hard to explain with just words so I’ll let some pictures do the talking:
    I have to say I am truly baffled by the amount of time that has gone by already. I feel like I can’t even adequately touch on many of the days and moments I’ve experienced so far. I lack the words and the time to cover such ground. But I guess if I were able to write about it all- I would be taking away from the time I have to be out there living it. As an aside- if you’re out there somewhere reading this and you’re on the fence about teaching abroad, about taking a trip, about quitting your job, about making any kind of daunting move at all- I ask that you please consider taking the leap. Every once in a while something happens in our lives, and whether it affects us directly or indirectly, it has the power to remind us that life is a very precious gift. It is a beautiful, fragile gift that has the potential to be taken away from us in the blink of an eye.  Do what you want to do and go where you want to go while you can. It is not all sunshine and rainbows in Thailand, and there is a certain amount of risk here (and anywhere else for that matter) that has become very evident recently. Regardless, it’s a risk worth taking and I have thrown myself outside of my comfort zone into a new and amazing culture that can make me laugh and cry all in the same day. Most times, the tears that uncontrollably stream down my cheeks have been instigated by feelings of pure joy and overwhelming happiness. This country makes me feel. It makes me think. It makes me introspective and reflective. It inspires me to see the rest of the world and to set aside the conventions and expectations that a lot of people associate with a successful life. Travel is what makes you rich. Promotions, money, and corporate America help you to afford nice things and to take 2 week luxury vacations. There is nothing wrong with that and that’s more than fine for a lot of people. But I’ve decided I want more than a 2 week vacation. I want lengthy, immersive experiences that fully encapsulate the following: “At the end of the day, your feet should be dirty, your hair messy, and your eyes sparkling.” So far, I’m happy to say that my feet are dirty every day. My hair is constantly messy without question. And there’s a sparkle in my eye that I haven’t seen in quite some time.

  • Miss Universe Goes to School

    Sawatdee ka from Pathum Thani! I’ve had a full week in my new home and I already feel like so much has happened. We left Hua Hin early on Saturday, October 25th and were transported via van to a hotel somewhere (still can’t tell you where I was if my life depended on it) near our final placement. In addition to Sara, Hillary, and me we had our fellow Greenhearter Kirstie along for the ride. Kirstie is working with the same agent and is being placed in nearby Bang Bon. We assumed Saturday would be spent apartment hunting, but instead we had the day to just hang at the hotel. We’d been informed the night before that Saturday evening there would be a welcome party for us in conjunction with a birthday party. I had no idea what to expect, as is quite often the case these days, so we dressed conservatively to be on the safe side and awaited our 6 pm pick up. We arrived at a cute little restaurant that, as it turns out, belongs to our agent. I had no idea who I was about to meet or what was about to happen, but it ended up being a wonderful night. In addition to our group of girls, we spent the evening with our agent Khun Neung, her righthand man Johnny, the birthday girl Shiny (who teaches at a different school), a few Thai assistants, and a few fellow foreign language teachers from our new school (there are 15 of us total in the foreign language department!). One of these teachers just so happened to be a fellow Greenhearter as well which was a fun surprise. Carter is from Arizona and had taken the TESOL a month prior to us. Luckily, he had been around Pathum Thani for a while to show us the ropes. We enjoyed an endless feast that evening and indulged in BIRTHDAY CAKE! (much thanks to Shiny for the occasion) Best of all, there was a stage and karaoke- cue ‘’Hit Me Baby One More Time’’ and ‘’Killing Me Softly’’….
    During the course of our dinner we found out what our accommodation options were going to be. Because transportation is included in our contracts, it only made sense that teachers all lived in the same spot for an easy pick up. That spot has the ever glorious name of Progress Mansion. On Sunday, we made the trip to Progress (as I shall call it going forward) and learned very quickly that our American standards needed to be thrown out the window. First of all, only one room out of 3 was available for move-in that day. This meant the 3 musketeers would be spending the next 3 days sharing one room together. This room would become mine after an intense rock-paper-scissors match. First impressions are obviously important and upon getting off at the 4th floor we were greeted with a wide, pitch black hallway. Like, horror movie style hallway. The room itself isn’t terrible by any means, we were just a bit surprised as our stay in Hua Hin had been quite comfy in comparison. It’s a one bedroom studio with very sterile (and by sterile I mean white, I’m sure they’re actually not sterile at all) walls and floors. There is a king sized bed with a slightly cushier mattress than I’ve experienced so far. Almost makes up for the death stain on it. But hey, nothing a mattress cover can’t disguise, right? There is a pretty efficient and roomy wardrobe, a table and two chairs, and a vanity. If you step outside there is a small porch with a sink, and next to that is the bathroom. There is a Western style toilet (which I’d like to advise you to learn to appreciate), a shower, and another sink. It’s not the prettiest bathroom you ever did see, but it will definitely suffice. I feel like I’m in college again, and I kind of don’t hate it. The girls have since moved to their respective rooms, also on the same floor and just across the hall. There are some perks to Progress, and those would be the pool and the gym. The only problem is, these suckers want us to pay 80 baht each time we use the gym or pool. 80 baht is only about $2.50, but when you’re making what we’re making, that adds up!
    We spent the following day exploring our new school. Samkhok is a high school and is located about 15 minutes from our apartment. We met the mayor of Pathum Thani as soon as we arrived, and though the man speaks absolutely no English aside from ‘good morning’ I could tell he was very kind. We met the director and vice director, at which time I was addressed as Miss Universe. I’m sure I turned 50 shades of red, but, I’ll take that compliment any day. Apparently the Thais are big on their pageants here, and according to them I resemble Miss Universe 2005 (9 years ago, really!?). We were told that the school recently had a huge influx of 700 students and as a result they are building an addition to help accommodate them. In the meantime, they have some ‘natural classrooms’ which are essentially outdoor classrooms held in a  row of huts. A significant percentage of my classes will be held out there. It’s funny, I find the school to be a bit of a contradiction (as most things are in Thailand) because it is a very strange mix of modern and, well, the complete opposite. There’s a pretty impressive movie theater space, a computer lab, and an air conditioned teacher’s room, but yet the classrooms are quite old school. Some have A/C, more do not. The lack of A/C is a fun one in this heat, but my body seems to be adjusting. I’ll skip ahead to the joy that was Thursday- our first official day of classes. This was a day I will NEVER forget.

    Day One (a recap in quick short phrases so as to indicate the rapid/frustrated pace of my brain that day)

    Wake up at 5 am. Take an excessive amount of time getting ready. Put on the black skirt and blue flowered shirt I’ve been provided specifically for Thursdays. ‘All eyes will be on you’ I was told.  Hop on van at 6:30 am. Pray that I survive the crazy drive (speed limits supposedly exist but are not abided by.) Arrive at school. Put bag in teacher lounge. Walk to front of school for assembly. Stare at 3,000 faces lined up across the entire parking lot. Stand still and listen to people speak Thai for a really long time. Copy the actions of everyone around me. Listen to some songs. Bow my head a few times. Sweat a lot. Suppress bouts of anxiety. Walk towards the stage when ‘’new teachers’’ are called. Blush profusely when addressed as Miss Universe again. Walk up on stage. Listen to Hillary introduce herself. Smile for the pictures. Take microphone. Address the masses. “Hello! How are you? My name is Lauren. I come from America. I teach English.” Listen to the other introductions. Respond to questions asked by proficient Thai student. Clap. Walk off stage. 

    Go to teacher lounge. Prepare for first class at 10:10 am. M1 students, so 12 and 13 years old. Walk into class. 20 students. Not too bad. Oh look, the smart one who was asking the questions on stage. Perfect. Write basic information on the board. My name is Teacher Lauren. I am from America. I like soccer. I like movies. Write 5 rules on the board. No cell phones. Raise your hand. Stay seated. 1 person to restroom at a time. Speak English. Have students write their own introductions. Laugh at some of the answers such as ‘’I like Walking Dead’’. Ask students to read their papers aloud. Think of the girl from Pitch Perfect again as they speak at a decibel below normal hearing capacity. Give high fives. Introduce topic of telling time. Finish with a board race. Draw two blank clocks. Make two teams. Yell out a time. Have students race to draw the clock hands. Say goodbye and exhale.

    Back to teacher lounge. Look at schedule (which I got at 10 pm last night). Second class at 12:00. Look at lesson plan. “How to read and write about the future”. Oh, these are normal vocabulary words: ‘’benefit, explore, fantasy, interact, limitation, realistic, social’’. Right. Run up to class. Walk into a room with 4 boys. Assume everyone’s coming late because that’s what they do in Thailand. Ask students if they are the class that is on my schedule. Receive a confident yes and some confused looks. Student shows me his schedule. My class is listed at 11 am. Cue my own confused looks. I missed my class. “No teacher so Thai teacher come!’’ they tell me. Oh, that’s super. Back to teacher lounge. Explain to the administrators what happened. No one seems alarmed or bothered by this. “We will fix. First day.’’ Sit down at my desk. Browse schedule for reminder of week. 4 classes on Friday. Oh! That’s new. I didn’t know I had 3 of these. I was told I had 3 different classes that I’d see multiple times a week. Now I have 6 (basically this just means a lot more lesson planning for me). The structured, punctual American in me inwardly dies. Sit in teacher lounge and type up semi-venting blog post to cope. 

    There are 3 things I will learn in Thailand. 1. patience (the power in my building just legit went out as I’m typing this) 2. generosity and 3. to be ok with NEVER knowing what’s going on at any given time. I am in this country for various reasons of my own, but I do want to make a difference in the lives of these teenagers. I’m being confronted with the fact that it is going to be a difficult task, however. Image is SO important here in Thailand. As Westerners, I truly feel like we are here for show. The emphasis is on image over substance, and a lot of these children don’t give a shit if they learn English or not. We teach in a country where these kids pass regardless of their grades. Most go on to work at 7 Elevens, KFC’s, etc. I had several more classes on Friday and witnessed two completely different ends of the English spectrum. I had children that could not spell their name in English. They could not write “I am from Thailand’’. They looked at me blankly, messed around in the back of the classroom, and kicked each other. I also had a class entirely made up of girls who I had full blown conversations with. We talked about America, Halloween, boys, and my ‘’prominent nose’’ as indicated by the translator on my student’s phone. So far I have had no Thai assistants in my classrooms, so getting messages across is quite difficult. A few times I had to take attendance, and spent about 10 minutes cracking these kids up as I tried to pronounce their insanely long names. It doesn’t help that ‘porn’ is a common ending to their names. ‘’Supaporn’’ is one of those names you’d really like to avoid reading out loud. That being said, I’m going to do my best to help these students understand how beneficial the English language is in bettering their lives. I don’t know if I’ll be successful, but I’m sure as hell going to try. If high school is the end of the education road for most of these kids, and most likely it will be, I need to stuff as much motivation into their brains as I can. 

    Today is Sunday and we were asked by the school’s director to attend a parent’s meeting. I got up at 6:30 am for an 8 am arrival. We sat in rows beside a stage and listened to hours of Thai. Our moment of glory was brief as we were brought on stage once more for introductions to the parents of our students. Carter took one for the team and spoke on our behalf. I’m fairly certain he could have sang the ABC’s and they wouldn’t have known the difference, but nevertheless we did our part just by showing our American faces. I have quite a bit of lesson planning to get to now for the upcoming week. I should have a pretty interesting tale to tell after this Thursday, which is a national holiday here in Thailand. November 6th will be a full moon and the holiday is called Loy Krathong. In honor of this day, the girls and I were asked to be a part of the river parade. I’ll speak more about the meaning of the day and details when the time comes, but I’ll be dressed up in traditional Thai garb waving from a lotus flower on a float. I feel quite honored to be given this opportunity, and I’m certain it will be unforgettable. Until next time…

    Lauren



  • Life begins at the end of your comfort zone…

    What an amazing last few weeks. After our first week of fun we really hit the ground running and jumped right into our TESOL course. I came into this having zero teaching experience aside from my few years of 1:1 early intervention with autistic children. It seems almost magical how this course has transformed us all into well-prepared teachers in such a short time. Yesterday we took our final exam and thankfully all passed- I officially have my certification to teach English. Saying goodbye to our course instructor, Jon, was emotional for every one of us. Hell, even the goodbye to our daily songthaew driver was hard. It’s amazing the bonds that can form in such a short period of time. We all joke about how truly baffling it is that we like every single person in our group- I mean, how likely is it that 27 people will ALL get along? But believe it or not, we did. That being said, this afternoon was full of tears when about half the group packed up to leave for Bangkok, and ultimately go to their placements. I knew I loved every single one of those people but I had no idea it was going to hit me so hard until it did. It’s equal parts wonderful and cruel to spend every day with people only to have to separate. I think the hardest part of all of this is the fact that the group gets so close and almost codependent only for some of us to end up in the middle of nowhere by ourselves. For this reason, I am SO thankful for Hillary and Sara. I’m also thankful that I have friends sprinkled throughout the entire country. What an amazing network to have.
    Picture

    The yellow team on our last day of the course. SO MUCH LOVE!
    That leads me to my next point which is that I have officially accepted a teaching placement! I am incredibly lucky as XploreAsia was able to place Hillary, Sara, and me in the same school. Details are still a little bit hazy but we have the essential facts of location, salary, and benefits. Our school is in Rangsit, Thailand, which is about a 30-40 minute drive North of Bangkok. From what I understand it’s an extension of Bangkok and is pretty urban. I’ll be teaching high school, which is a slight turn of events because I initially came into this experience wanting kindergarteners. This changed a few weeks ago when we had the opportunity to practice our teaching at an English camp held at the school we’ve been taking our course at. Something like 1,200 kids came for the two-day camp. I was in a group of 3 and we prepared two lesson plans. Day 1 we taught the really young kids colors. Attention spans are obviously short so we found ourselves in a constant state of exhaustion trying to entertain and manage this age group. Day 2 we taught high school, and what an incredible change of pace it was. Our lesson was on family. I actually used my own for our flashcards and the family tree, so to my dear parents, grandparents, and siblings- hundreds of Thai children have seen your smiling faces 🙂 It was actually really special to be able to have my family involved in that lesson. Both days were incredible, but the latter just went above and beyond. These high schoolers were so warm and friendly. They wanted to participate. They were engaged. And best of all, they wanted my autograph and pictures as the end of every class. Some even drew pictures of me! My heart was literally bursting with joy by the end of this camp.

    Anyway, I’ve digressed. If we thought we had an emotional day with the course final and goodbyes, it was about to increase tenfold, but in the best possible way. The director of XploreAsia asked if 8 people from our group would like to have dinner with his friend’s Thai students. He preferred those of us with highschool placements to volunteer, and so, I did. The Thai students were about 13-27 and partaking in an English camp. Their night with us was a wrap up to the camp and a chance to practice their English in a social setting. All of us who volunteered were essentially blubbering idiots on the way to the student’s hotel, having just said goodbye to all of our friends. As a result we weren’t feeling particularly enthused about this little outing we’d agreed to. I knew, however, that it was going to be amazing before it even started. I know how the Thai people perceive us as Westerners and I knew these kids were probably pumped as all hell to hang out with us. Just knowing that made me rise to the occasion. We arrived at the hotel and Hillary and I were actually the first to walk through the door since the others were still a bit further behind. We walked into a lobby full of Thai students who upon seeing us burst into a round of applause. I mean, this shit does not happen in America. Not even close. Their director took us aside to give us a quick overview of the situation and we were each assigned a group of 3-4 students to spend time with. They were allotted a budget to take us out for food at the night market which was pretty awesome (who doesn’t like free food).When I walked out into the lobby I threw two fingers in the air and looked around for the members assigned to group 2. I caught eyes with a boy who nodded enthusiastically and introduced himself as ‘’Pom’’ which mind you was spelled on his name tag as ‘’Prom’’. He summoned two others, a girl and a boy, named “Oi’’ (spelled Oil) and Tung. Prom is 17, Oil is 15, and Tung is 21. They successfully introduced themselves as such and we were off to a good start. We discussed where we were all from as well then headed off to the night market. Initial conversation was difficult and awkward, as it usually is in situations such as these, and I found myself gesticulating quite a bit. For instance, “Are you hungry?’’ (rubs stomach). We walked through the market and used the things around us as conversation starters. ‘’Do you like…ice cream? Fried chicken? Watermelon?’’ etc. I found that Prom had pretty decent English. He asked me many questions and even told me I was beautiful a few times (I really could get used to this). Our first stop was to a rotee stand. Now, rotee is this amazing crepe-like sweet made to order. I take mine with banana and Nutella when possible and it’s quite literally the most addicting food I have found here. The kicker? I’m pretty sure it’s of Indian origin, not Thai. Hands down one of my favorite night market treats in Thailand. We continued to walk and point out the various things for sale at the market. Lots of ‘do you like’ questions ensued. We ducked into a movie stall and talked about which movies we liked. We’re all Disney fans, so at least we had that going for us. The most difficult question I received all night was this: ‘’Lauren, why did you come to Thailand?’’. I believe my first words were ‘’oh boy’’. In the simplest way that I could I explained, “I was not happy with my job in America, and I love to travel’’ (‘’Oooooh’’ Prom and Oil replied, followed by translation to Tung who really didn’t understand me at all).

    Picture

    Jung, Prom, and Oil at the night market!
    As the night went on, we all became more comfortable. There were plenty of moments where Prom and I looked at each other completely dumbfounded because we couldn’t understand a single word coming out of each other’s mouths, but then we’d laugh it off and move on. We covered the basic topics…’’what sports do you like?’’ ‘’how many siblings do you have?’’ ‘’do you have a boyfriend/girlfriend?’’ etc. Occasionally one of them would disappear and I slowly caught on to the fact that they were putting together a gift for me. Earlier in the night I had mentioned that I loved elephants. “‘Why do you love elephants?’’ they asked. ‘’I don’t know, because we do not have them in America’’ I replied. At the end of the night, I was given an elephant magnet (I love elephants, I love Thailand, it read) as well as a post card for the Hua Hin Elephant Sanctuary. On the back, each student had written me a personalized note. ‘’Thank you for everything, I love you’’ (times two, as I think one copied the other one) and ‘’Thank you for all, your eyes so beautiful’’. I’d be lying if I said I wasn’t THIS close to bursting into tears. It’s indescribable. No matter how hard I try I cannot properly convey to outsiders how this country and it’s people make me feel. The show appreciation and love to the highest degree. They made me feel so special. I enjoyed my time with them so much, and had fun getting my own mini lessons in Thai. We took a few photos together and I gave them each a big hug. Tung and I are now Instagram buddies, and Oil friended me on Facebook. I’ve been warned that if you accept a Thai on Facebook, everything you post will be liked. Also, their friends will friend you, too. So far I can confirm this is all true. I can honestly say this experience was the highest of highs and a strong front runner for best experience in Thailand thus far. It gives me so much hope for my high school placement, having experienced what it’s like to hangout with 3 older Thai students. I am so thankful to have been given the opportunity to meet them. It meant more to me than I’m sure they realize!

  • Hello Hua Hin

    I’ve done SO much and have so many things I could talk about but my goodness, I’ve been busy! I arrived in Hua Hin on Monday and this city is exactly the change of pace I needed. As we made our way down south, you could feel the vibe completely transform. The chaos and crazy smells of Bangkok slowly faded away into a chill, palm-tree laden beach town. I couldn’t ask for a better location to spend the next few weeks of my TESOL course. In case you’re wondering (and I’ll admit I didn’t know the exact acronym until recently) TESOL stands for ‘teaching English to speakers of other languages’. This past week in Hua Hin has been one of the better weeks of my life- Monday was spent getting to our accommodation, shopping for basic necessities, and getting a tour of the mall in which we could find Western food, cellular providers, and currency exchange booths. Hillary and I are once again sharing a King bed, and this time it really is my idea of a King. I reckon this bed was popular in Fred Flinstone’s home. This thing is hard as a rock! There is A/C in the room, so that’s a nice luxury. I do realize, however, that it is in my best interest to use it sparingly so as not to become accustomed to it. There’s a possibility that I won’t have A/C in my next accommodation, and an even bigger possibility that it will not be in my classroom. Our bathroom is an interesting set up of shower/toilet/sink with zero separation. Not sure who designed these things, but how hard could a door or shower curtain be!? Our very first night I saw the most beautiful sunset I’ve witnessed here yet from our balcony. It was the perfect reassurance that I was in a good place.
    Tuesday morning all 27 of us in the ‘’yellow group’’ waited outside to catch our transportation to school. We take what is called a songthaew. It essentially looks like a huge barred paddy wagon carrying white kids off to jail. We pile into this thing daily. No seat belts. Trees smacking us all in the head through the bars. Thais smiling and waving and taking pictures of us as we drive through town. It’s pretty enjoyable, actually. When it’s as hot as it is here, you take the open air happily and ignore the fact that your hair is now a rat’s nest accessorized by leaves. Our course is being hosted at a Thai government school. The school is quite large and is comprised of primarily non-airconditioned classrooms with old wooden desks (often times with holes in them) and lots of fans. I can’t explain the absolute joy I get from seeing the children that attend this school as I walk to my own class. All of us can say hands down that we’ve never felt so famous. They high five us, they hug us, they try to talk to us…it’s absolutely adorable. Westerners in Hua Hin aren’t totally uncommon but to see us rolling up in hoards is something that excites them to no end.
    For the past week, our orientation has been a mix of classroom time and amazing excursions. I had anticipated that these trips would be cheesy and inauthentic but I am happy to report that I was very, very wrong. Our first trip was to a temple called Khao Tao. The best part of all is that when we go to these various destinations they are typically made exclusive to us. As we toured the temple, we were given some tidbits about Buddhism. Unfortunately, with a group as big as ours I felt like I was listening to the barely audible Asian girl from Pitch Perfect (if this reference is over your head, you MUST see this movie) and only heard about 25% of it. Buddhism is a religion I would really like to study further. The temple’s location is really stunning, as it is set up on a hill alongside the ocean and a small fishing village. At the highest point (after quite a few stairs) you find a GIANT golden Buddha. Our visit included a meditation session which took place in one of the smaller temples on the property. Windows were open and nothing could be heard but our own breathing and the ocean waves. We met with a Buddhist monk who gave us some wise advice such as don’t lie or be a home wrecker (translated to us in other lengthier terms) and at the end we were blessed with holy water and given bracelets.
    From the temple we took a trip to the dog rescue organization that xploreAsia has started called Rescue Paws. It is a non-profit organization that helps improve the lives of stray dogs in Thailand. The stray dog population is UNREAL. We’re talking thousands. It doesn’t matter where you go, you will see dogs upon dogs upon dogs just wandering around. Some are pretty darn cute and appear similar to our own house pets in America, while others are emaciated and can be found in the same spots day after day, seemingly without an ounce of energy. It’s certainly bothersome and difficult to see, but honestly it just becomes a regular part of your daily life here. So far I’ve resisted the urge to pet them- a friend of mine getting bit by a collared dog (ya know, usually a sign of a friendly, domesticated animal) has further deterred me. It really was a pleasure to visit this organization and see the dogs they have helped and are in the process of helping. I promise I’m not trying to make you cry but here’s an example of a dog in bad condition and one that was restored to good health:
    Tuesday night we checked out the Hua Hin night market. It isn’t really frequented by tourists- it’s more of a locals market which made it pretty neat. The things these people sell are comical- I came across used soccer cleats and a Kohl’s employee t-shirt. I bought what appeared to be pig-in-a-blanket type rolls but I assure you the taste was more like disgusting pork in a pancake. Speaking of breakfast food, I did find a dark chocolate mini waffle of sorts that was pretty delicious. I’m really struggling with food- the problem is you have NO idea what anything is going to taste like so it’s hit or miss. For this reason I subsist off of chicken and rice nearly every day. When I order this I know what to expect and I’m usually about to pass out from hunger. My goal for this market was to find elephant pants (thin material that essentially look like pjs and are covered, as the name implies, in elephants) however, these were nowhere to be found. I was eventually able to find them at the touristy market, phew!
    And now, for my FAVORITE day so far: our excursion to a pineapple farm and an elephant sanctuary. The pineapple farm, to my untrained eye, was in the middle of nowhere. The idea was to swing by and pick up some fresh pineapple to A. consume ourselves and B. bring to feed our new friends at the elephant sanctuary. Fields, flowers, mountains, and by far the freshest pineapple I’ve ever tasted made up this little pit stop. For 30 baht (less than a dollar) I had myself a bag of mouth-watering pineapple chunks. It was a pretty small operation in terms of the farm’s stand and I’d imagine xploreAsia contributes greatly to their overall business when our groups come through. The landscape was picturesque- I could have wandered around there all day. Now- I haven’t mentioned that Hillary, Sara, and me were asked to be ambassadors for this particular teach abroad program in Thailand. As I understand it and not having seen a finished product, we’re essentially the faces of marketing materials that will be used to promote the program to future teachers. Consequently, we have ourselves a fun new South African friend named Liam who gets to film our excursions and interview us. Naturally, we thought it’d be fun if the 4 of us did a picture of our own whilst in such a beautiful setting.
    After we’d had our share of pineapple eating, we hopped on our songthaew and headed to the Hutsadin Elephant Sanctuary. I have proof that elephants and elephants alone were a significant factor in some people’s decision to come to this country and I have absolutely no doubt in my mind why- they’re AMAZING. We visited with 3 main elephants who were quite pleased to see us with pineapples in tow. One of the elephants was actually pregnant and we were allowed to touch her and feel the baby move (it was both ginormous and active and had I not known I would have assumed it was a tumor protruding from the elephant’s side). Of course this created photo opps galore. I was beside myself to have this opportunity. I looked these elephants in the eye. Felt their prickly skin. Fed them pineapple. Got whacked in the head by their huge flapping ears. It really doesn’t get any cooler than that. After visiting the big girls, we went and saw Songkran, the baby elephant on site. Songkran is a talented genius who has been trained to play sports (soccer, basketball) paint, kiss, hug, and collect money in a basket (of course) amongst many other things. Songkran gave me the best hug of my life . Experiences like these really are hard to find words for, but days like that make this experience so, so worth it.
    Our last two excursions were to an artist village and to a Muay Thai gym. The artist village was adorable- tropical and artsy and eclectic. We drew and painted- activities intended to get our creative juices flowing. It’d been a while since I’ve had time to produce some art so I really enjoyed that. The Muay Thai (not to be confused with Mai Thai ‘’no, no, no, mai thai cocktail!’’) was also much needed. I’ve had no release for a few weeks’ worth of emotion and stress, so what better solution than kicking and punching as hard as I can? Our group was split into 3 for our lessons. My group was lucky enough to land the actual boxing ring as our teaching arena. A fairly small Thai man led our lesson and taught us the correct stance as well as how to punch and kick correctly. He thought it’d be fun to throw push ups in between sets or have us practice high knee thrusts at a rapid pace for a few minutes straight. Needless to say, I was sweating from head to toe. I loved every second though, and am really hopefully that I can get into Muay Thai wherever I’m ultimately placed. Such a solid workout.
    I’ve been neglecting the actual classroom work we’ve been doing but the first week it was mostly informative- Thai culture, do’s and don’t’s…things of that nature. XploreAsia is awesome in a lot of ways, but what I appreciate most is their laid back, tell-it-like-it-is attitude. Do we talk about prostitutes in class? We sure as heck do. They’re ALL over the place. Do we discuss how to address/treat lady boys? Absolutely. Curse words are thrown around class without a second thought. It’s just REAL. I love this more than words can express and feel all the more prepared because of it. Without going into too much detail for confidentiality purposes, we had a workshop in which we took a few minutes to reflect on WHY we came to Thailand. There’s of course the generic reasons- ‘’to teach’’ ‘’to change lives’’ ‘’to travel’’ but a lot of it goes much deeper than that. This exercise fully expected that a lot of us had reasons that maybe we’d be reluctant to admit. Reasons that stemmed from a desire to run away from something. And if we did, it was 100% ok. This workshop was such a personal, emotional, and wonderful experience. It was so refreshing. How often do you sit down and REALLY get to know people’s stories? People shared things that I’d bet they never would feel comfortable telling loved ones at home- and it’s because we created a safe environment and because we’re in this together- this crazy, crazy experience we voluntarily signed up for. Not all of us got a chance to speak (myself included) but i think there’s an intention to finish it at a later date.We finished off our first week with a beach BBQ. Up until this point, we’d all been segregated into our four colored teams for class purposes, so it was nice to be reunited. We’d spent a lot of time with people from different groups while in Bangkok before the course officially started, and this was one of few opportunities to see them again. We drank, we swam, we dodged jellyfish, we threw frisbees, played soccer, and had a pig roast. The water down here is INCREDIBLE- I’ve always hated the cold ocean of the Northeast so this bath-temperature water is right up my alley. I can only imagine what it’s like further south off of the islands!Whew! (flexes cramping fingers) That pretty much sums up  my first week in Hua Hin. Until next time, CHEERS!

  • Temple Touring

    PictureJust a mob of ”farangs”

    Having only a few days in Bangkok, we decided to get the sightseeing started the morning after arriving and ventured out towards the famous Grand Palace and nearby temples. By ‘we’ I mean 16 individuals from various programs herding down the streets in a mob.

    There’s a few options for getting around, and we settled on taking a riverboat. There was a direct route to the Grand Palace but we chose the pricier roundabout tour that included a floating market stop and some eye-opening insight into how some Thai people really live. We all piled into our own riverboat and took in the city views from the open water before finding a narrower channel that passed what I can only assume were dilapidated houses, most of which had laundry hanging out to dry. All over the place. We made a stop during which time a sweet older woman with an iconic woven, pointy hat and bright pink lipstick paddled beside us in her own riverboat full of Thai trinkets. She offered us hats, fans, figurines, and BEER!


    PictureQuite the business woman on the river, I tell you.




    We carried on and saw sun-lounging reptiles that are made of nightmares, and HUGE carb-a-holic fish that fought over the bread a Thai man on a dock served to them. Soon, the tips of golden temples started coming into sight. We docked at Wat Arun, a temple so beautiful in detail and craftsmanship that a picture really is worth 1,000 words.

    Picture

    The beautiful Wat Arun. “Wat” means temple in Thai.

    The entry fee was 500 baht, or about $15 American dollars. Outside of the temple was a little market of its own, in which Hillary and I bought small wooden elephant souvenirs. A few of us also paid to get dressed up in traditional Thai garb and take pictures in front of the temple. We wore brightly colored wraps, jeweled headpieces, belts, wrist cuffs, and long, pointy gold tips on the ends of your fingers that were reminiscent of Edward Scissorhands. Wat Arun was a temple that we climbed rather than entered. The stairs were roughly a 90 degree angle, and equipped with a heavy camera and a purse was unbelievably difficult to traverse. I made it up, though (probably lost about a gallon of sweat doing so) and the views were worth it. Getting DOWN that staircase was absolutely frightening, but again- made it one piece. From there we hopped back on a boat to cross the river towards Wat Pho and the Grand Palace. Wat Pho is the home of the reclining Buddha, whom I’ve seen pictures of many times. Pictures have not done it justice, as it was immensely larger than I’d imagined. Few things really awe me, but this bigger than life statue absolutely did. Other areas of Wat Pho were equally awe-inspiring. Again, I don’t have the vocabulary to describe and feel like only my pictures can come close to conveying what it felt like to see these temples and statues. Being a large group and having lost about half our body weight in sweat, we decided to call it a day and save the Grand Palace for Sunday. My exhaustion level was such that I called it a night at approximately 6 pm and did not resurface until 2 am, at which hour my body decided it was time to wake up. I was WIDE awake and wrote my previous blog to the sweet serenades of thunder and lightning. The 11 hour time difference has been very difficult for my body to adjust to. 

    Every weekend Bangkok has what is called the Chatuchak Weekend Market which is the largest market in Thailand. To get there, we had to take the Sky Train. This is a fantastic mode of transportation, with an insanely easy ticketing system. In the states and even in London and Paris I found public transportation to be quite confusing. At the station you refer to a map, find your stop, and insert the number of baht assigned to that stop into a machine. Your ticket and change are dispensed, and off you go. The Sky Train is air conditioned and offers views of Bangkok that were good enough to finally convince me that I wasn’t living in a complete shithole. Our hotel just happens to be located in an area that is not quite so picturesque. The market was larger than we had time to explore, but it really was incredible. There was a method to the madness and it was sectioned off into the various items for sale: clothing, jewelry, etc. I’ve been very reluctant to buy things, not having mastered the baht to dollar conversion and also being wary of getting completely ripped off. I also just arrived and have plenty of time to buy souvenirs and such. I did come out with one turquoise bracelet for about 75 baht, or a little over $2. Again, the heat was nearly unbearable and we ducked into shade whenever we could. Among the group we tried all sorts of things, from freshly made iced coffee (the guy who made this stuff could be on America’s Got Talent, he was whipping liquid into cups while spinning in circles and not missing a drop) to garlic bread on sticks, some coconutty soup concoction, and dipped bananas. Also, it was at the market that I had my first run-in with a squat toilet. I had to pay 3 baht to use this wonderful facility. Note to self- there is a toilet paper dispenser upon entering the bathroom. Take some. This toilet is ground level, and as its name suggests, you squat over it. I don’t find this fun and hope to goodness I don’t have to do it often- but, at least I know I can if I have to. From the market we went back to the hotel and relaxed by the rooftop pool with the other teachers that arrived early. Then it was time to get ready for a night out in Bangkok.

    Now, let me preface this by saying some people went out the previous night while I was being an old lady and sleeping soundly. They had stories that I’m not even entirely comfortable repeating to a general audience, but there is some crazy a$$ stuff you can see/do in this country. That being said, I had an ‘’anything goes’’ attitude for our night out. I can honestly say that after this trip, there will be nothing anyone can do or say that can surprise me. After getting ready we (when I say we, this typically indicates the standard Lauren/Hillary/Sara trio) headed downstairs to the designated meeting place. The elevator doors opened and we were greeted by the loud, echoing laughter of about 30-35 people. Oh, so we’re rolling deep tonight. Somehow we managed to get this entire group on the Sky Train and in tuk tuks to Khao San Road. My idea of sensory overload roughly quadrupled upon walking down this street. There were people everywhere. Street food everywhere. Vendors everywhere. Bars galore. Street dancers. Just insane. Here you can get buckets of alcohol (various mixed drinks) for $200 baht, or about $6. Also, there’s no open container laws (I question if there’s any laws) so you can take your bucket whereverrrr your little heart desires. It is not my intention to get hammered in a country I’m not even remotely familiar with yet, so I drank my bucket and called it a night. 

    Sunday we set aside to get back to the Grand Palace which was so worth it. Built in 1782, it housed Thai Kings for 150 years. Dressing for these kinds of places is somewhat difficult because shoulders and knees cannot be exposed. When it’s 90+ degrees, you’d really like your freakin shoulders and knees exposed. The palace was a large compound of magnificent structures and temples and statues. Again, allow me to give photographic evidence instead of mediocre descriptions:
    All I can say about these places is that if you’re ever in Bangkok, you must see them for yourself. After the palace we got lunch at a nearby restaurant. I ordered fried noodles with chicken and a coca cola because I have zero self control and was craving a flavor that I could anticipate. My noodles weren’t at all what I expected, they were thick, soggy ribbons with various spices. But, when you’re starving you’re starving, so you eat noodles that look like strips of plastic. We bartered ourselves a taxi home and spent the afternoon relaxing until our first xploreAsia meeting at 7 pm. Up until this point it has felt like I’m on a vacation and will be returning home, but reality set in. The staff from this program seem genuinely great, and it was actually pretty exciting to finally hear about the details of what to expect the next month when we make the 3 hour move down to the beachside city of Hua Hin. We’ll all be headed down there Monday morning, so I’ll have a whole new city to explore and report back on. Hope everyone’s doing well back home, eat some pizza for me!

  • One Day in Bangkok

    You would think nearly two weeks is enough time to prepare for a trip. ANY trip. But for me, procrastination is undoubtedly my flaw so my last 2 weeks in the US felt like a whirlwind of goodbyes, appointments, and checklists. Then there was the packing. Oh the packing. Up until 7:59 pm, one minute before we had to leave for the airport, I was cramming things into every crevice I had available. Now, I’d love to sit here and tell you how wonderful and important it is to pack light, but I would not be practicing what I preach. Maybe I’ll revisit this topic when I actually discover all the senseless crap I packed and didn’t need/use at all. I checked a 50 lb bag, a smaller 40 lb bag, and had to take on board a duffle filled with the miscellaneous items that would not fit in aforementioned bags. Additionally, I had a tote with all things near and dear to my heart: camera, laptop, passport, etc. There may or may not be a bikini in there as well. Goodbyes at the airport were far from easy- but after all the anticipation leading up to this moment I can honestly say I did feel ready. I’m hoping my tears going forward will be reserved for nothing but sad movies.I HIGHLY recommend Emirates as an airline. I lucked out- not only did I have an aisle seat for my first 12 hour leg (so clutch- there’s nothing less fun than poking your sleeping neighbors awake because you have to pee) but I had two empty seats next to me as well. I was very much the token white girl on this flight headed for Dubai- but I should probably start getting used to that. We took off at 11:15 pm, which was perfect for passing out after a long, emotional day. I watched ‘The Fault in Our Stars’, popped two Tylenol PM’s, had a midnight ‘’dinner’’ of lamb, potatoes, veggies, and chocolate torte, then went nuh nights. When I awoke it was time for breakfast- a cheese omelette and some fresh fruit. This was particularly bizarre because 2 hours later I landed in Dubai where the local time was around 7 pm. Time travel is real, people. I was hoping for a window seat and views of Dubai upon landing…as well as views from the airport….but failed on both accounts. My arrival gate was quite close to my next departure date and my bags aren’t light- so I found myself a nice reclining chair (why aren’t these at Logan!?) and parked it. The flight to Dubai went fairly quickly – it was a HUGE double decker plane that greeted you with a grand staircase when you entered the cabin (what?!) and before I knew it, it was 8 am and I was landing in Bangkok, Thailand. After finagling my 100+ lbs of luggage onto a cart, I made my way to the exit where I was to be greeted by an XploreAsia rep. I’ve always wanted my name on one of those little fancy signs at the airport. After a slight anxiety attack and some meandering around, I found a tiny Thai woman with the sign and quite literally galloped towards her. Upon seeing my GINORMOUS smile, she said ‘’Lauren?!’’. I was also elated to find two other names on my sign, Sara and Stephanie, who had also arrived. I subsequently attacked them with hugs of relief. Our shuttle came to bring us to our hotel where we’d all be staying for a few days. This ride was my first chance to observe my surroundings and I’m pretty sure my eyes were the size of my head as I tried to process the sensory overload that is this city. Pretty sure traffic laws are nonexistent- motorbikes zig zag through traffic at high-speed. One of the first super comforting sights I witnessed was a man down and out in the middle of the street – suggestion being that he had just been in a motorbike accident (surprise, surprise). He was attended to with a pillow below his head and several men waving a fan at his face. I knew to expect a general uncleanliness from Bangkok, but, WHOA. The range of buildings is unreal- high rises over here and dilapidated buildings over there. I also knew street food was prevalent but these people are truly set up every few feet. I’ve seen stray cats and dogs, who albeit it dirty, appear to be quite well fed. 7 Eleven and Starbucks do exist- so that’s happy news. I’m still trying to get used to the smell here. As with any foreign country I suppose, it is so different from anything I’ve ever experienced that it really takes a hit to the senses. You’ll be walking and suddenly it smells like you’re in a landfill. But worse. A few steps more and the air is infused with rice and cooking. Walk along a little further and there’s relief in the form of beautifully scented flowers.

    When I arrived at my hotel, the moment I’d been waiting two months for was finally here: meeting Hillary! Hillary and I have spoken every single day since connecting via our travel company’s Facebook group, and she is my roommate here in Bangkok and going forward. Most people have two twin beds in their rooms but Hillary and I must be super special because we have a King! Butttt wait. (And perhaps this can be attributed to a nation of relatively small people) our King turned out to be no bigger than a Queen at best. It’s a good thing I feel like I’ve known her for ages. So, because I arrived so early, 5 of us girls did some exploring and exchanged our American money to Thai baht. We were starving and discovered a stand-out restaurant near our hotel. I could tell it was fancy just by looking at it- but for our first meal in Bangkok we felt we deserved a splurge. The restaurant was also a cooking school and called ‘’The Blue Elephant’’. The people were lovely and the decor was beautiful. We all ordered beers and cocktails (I got a ‘’Thai Orchid’’ which came accessorized, as you may expect, with an orchid) and ordered some food. Everything was delicious. 

    It took us about an hour to pay the bill, given our complete lack of experience with baht and having to divide it up 5 ways. But, eventually we delivered our money to the waiter in small, glass elephants and went on our merry way. At this point, a nap was very much in order. I awoke around 9 pm to find Hillary getting ready. She was going to meet some new arrivals and grab dinner. My body fought me but I dragged my ass out of bed. I’m glad I did, because I met some more great people. A group of about 10 of us hung out on our hotel’s patio before making a group trip to 7 Eleven and grabbing various snacks/beer. We all hit it off so quickly and I imagine it’s because we’re such like-minded individuals. This isn’t something everyone does, and even though we’re different ages and from all over the country- at the root of it all we have this crazy experience in common. I couldn’t be happier to have them all along for the ride.